Malawian Passion

So I’m sitting in my room at the moment. The power is out again. But I’m not surprised anymore as it’s a regular occurrence. I’m told the outages have something to do with water weeds clogging the hydroelectric intakes on Lake Malawi. Whatever the reason, its difficult to work as I’m very much constrained to using my lap top.

I have just arrived in my room in the Ntchisi District Community Development Centre from my friend’s house where I ate supper. Dinner was delicious – beef sausage and rice with stewed tomatoes – but very much an anomaly of a meal as my friend was hosting a special visitor from Lilongwe. As I approached the Centre, I noticed that no candles had been lit. This was a bit surprising as the watchmen are usually very quick to do so when the power goes out. As I step in the building through the back door, I hear the faint sound of singing coming from within. However, this time it is not women and children but rather the singing of men. I pause for a moment as this is quite unusual. I was aware that in the current group of villagers attending the Centre for training on apiculture and livestock production, a considerable amount of men were present compared to the normal majority of women.

As I walked through the corridor to my room I realize a number of men are singing and dancing in complete darkness and as a result they do not notice me. I quietly slip into my room and light a candle. The sound of their collective voices and feet pounding the concrete floor is crystal clear through the single wall that separates us. The singing is nothing like I’ve heard before. They are experimenting with different vocal sounds from very deep low bass-like rumbles to high pitched baritone-like screeches. As one song is complete a brief pause will ensue before another invisible individual in the group begins another song which they all seem to know.

 The singing has been going on for over an hour. They don’t sound to be tired though perhaps if I could see them through the darkness their body language would suggest otherwise. Although I do not understand a single word, they are joyful. People are laughing and slapping hands and encouraging each other to sing stronger and more unique.

I too am enjoying the festive spirit. It would be hard not to as the good vibes emanating from all of the people is contagious. The joy expressed by these rural Malawians is unlike any I’ve observed from the various other cultures I’ve been exposed to. And its not just this group of villagers passing through the Centre for training but every group seems to want to expresses themselves in the same way each and every night.

 

Here I am!

My skin is damp. It has been since I stepped off the plane and onto Malawian soil 7 days ago. The humidity in the air is thick – sharply contrasting the dry prairie air I am accustomed to. This damp heat sucks the energy right out of me. For the past week, I and four other EWB Overseas Volunteer Staff (OVS) have been put through the cogs of EWB’s in-country training in Malawi’s capital city, Lilongwe. This training is in addition to the 4.5 weeks of pre-departure training we went through in Toronto. In true EWB fashion, the training was challenging and continually pushed me out of my comfort zone and into my learning zone. But, I can confidently say I feel prepared and am ready to begin my placement.

 

Tomorrow morning I leave Lilongwe and will travel approximately 75 km northeast to initiate EWB’s newly formed partnership with the Ntchisi District Government. Once there I will be working with the District Water Officer and District Planning Director to assist in the development of the water and sanitation management information system. In addition, I will be documenting lessons learned from a recently completed water and sanitation project funded by the African Development Bank as well as document observations regarding key constraints to capacity building at the district government level necessary for effective decentralization. At the moment, I plan to be working in Ntchisi for the next 4 months whereafter I will likely make my way to the Ministry of Irrigation and Water Development (MoIWD) to assist with the Sector Wide Approach (SWAp). But, if I’ve learned one thing since arriving is that plans change often.

 

Regardless, I’m excited! Despite the hot humid air and seemingly opened ended nature of my placement my experience in Malawi has so far been excellent. The people are friendly and always seem willing to help with directions or teach me a phrase or two in Chichewa (one of the native languages). I haven’t gotten ill at all and overall I’m feeling good. We’ll see what tomorrow brings.    

 

Tenje Village

 I have spent the past five days in Tenje Village. It is located in the Traditional Authority of Vusojere which is one of Ntchisi District’s poorest areas. Here, the people farm along the sides of the many hills and mountains in order to plant their maize, potatoes, ground nuts and tobacco. The size of farm varies from 0.5 to 4 hectares depending on the quality of soil, location of your home, size of your family and your status in the community.

 

My host was Mr. Kadana Jemuss, the chief for the locality which includes five neighbouring villages. He is the person responsible for settling disputes among community members and representing their interests at regional gatherings. He has a wife and four children. However, the term family seems to almost encompasses everyone in the surrounding area as relationships are strong and everyone seems to be a brother, sister, uncle, aunt or cousin.

 

Yesterday, it rained all day. It was the kind of rain that made it difficult to have a conversation and formed many fast moving streams along the existing pathways and roads. These are the same rains that wash away many of the life giving nutrients in the soil but also bring life to the seeds sowed along the hand-plowed ridges.

 

Today, the rains are not as heavy. At first light Mr. Kadana’s three eldest children (World – 22, Verina – 17 and Gilbert – 14) walked the three kilometers to the nearest trading centre where they picked up bundles of tobacco seedlings that they will plant for the remainder of the day. Unfortunately, Mr. Kadana could not make the trip as he fell ill to malaria the previous day and was semi-bed ridden.

 

The soil is now saturated and ready to support the tobacco seedlings which the family will harvest and sell in four to five months. The successful sale of this tobacco will be vital to their survival. If the weather cooperates and the markets are favourable, the Jemuss’s will harvest approximately 1 tonne for a net profit of approximately $1,000. In addition, they will supplement their income by selling some bananas, a few chickens and a couple pigs. They will grow maize, which is their staple food, only for consumption. However, instead of planning enough maize to support them throughout the entire year they are gambling on their tobacco crop to yield a high enough profit to buy maize flour at a cheaper price. This type of risk is somewhat common within Mr. Kadana’s community and will either result in a relative feast or famine.

 

Despite their poverty, the Jemuss’s have treated me with great care, respect and generosity. Before embarking on my village stay I was told by my work colleagues that extreme hospitality is a common cultural trait among the millions of rural Malawians. However, the Jemuss’s actions have spoken louder than these words. I was both shocked and occasionally ashamed for having been treated so well since I possessed so much more security than this family due to the Canadian passport in my back pocket. At times this seemingly contradictory situation was overwhelming.

 

These past five days have been truly rewarding not only because I gained some much needed weight but also because I have seen, heard, smelled, tasted and felt a sliver of the Jemuss’s lives. I’ve witnessed how they struggle to make ends meet and access basic requirements for improved livelihoods like fertilizer, medications, credit, education, clean drinking water and adequate sanitation. Never before have I felt so welcomed and yet, so aware of my position as a privileged, educated Canadian. The experience has left me feeling removed from my sense of reality back home in Canada and questioning how to relate it to my life in Malawi. Regardless, I feel fortunate and more excited than ever before about development and all the opportunities available for meaningful impact.

 

Mr. Kadana Jemuss showcasing a tobacco seedling